TL;DR: ★☆☆☆☆ Would not do again. Would not recommend.

We recently took the Amtrak Southwest Chief from Chicago to Los Angeles.

See our hopes and dreams that it would be like the brochure in my earlier post about it.


Things we liked:

  1. The food was fantastic, with huge portions.
     
  2. Having a bedroom, we always had the option to have our meals “to go,” which IMHO was a lost marketing opportunity to call “room service.”
     
  3. We were allowed to bring alcohol on board, but only if you had a bedroom and you could only drink it in said bedroom.

Things we didn’t like:

  1. We paid just under $1000 for a bedroom on the sleeper car, which was way too cramped and had fold-out bunk beds not really conducive to gentlemen of a certain age, which we both just happen to be.
     
  2. Trying to negotiate my way down the ladder to get down from the top bunk the first morning, I almost stepped into our sink. That’s when I — too late! — realized I should have swapped which ends I put my head and the ladder.
     
  3. The ride was like being on an airplane with turbulence for 43 hours. You couldn’t ever walk from car to car (i.e., sleeper car to dining car to observation car) without your hands held out to touch each wall and spreading your legs for balance, due to constantly being thrown from side-to-side.
     
  4. People are just incredibly self-centered, rude, and give zero f*cks:
     
    • People walked around the train with their pajamas, housecoats, and what looked like shower caps on their heads — everything but their curlers still in.
       
    • A man sitting across from us in the observation car set his phone down on the table and proceeded to broadcast his music on it. I said, “Excuse me, but would you put your headphones on (which were around his neck) to listen to your music?”
       
    • A man sat at another table with wireless earbuds in, holding his phone horizontally in front of his mouth, and had a 15-minute phone conversation like that. More than once.
       
    • We wish more people were comfortable with silence. A lot of the people sitting in the observation car just never shut up. And it’s the same conversations, “Where are you from? Is this your first train trip? Are you going all the way to L.A.?” Ad nauseam.
       
    • We wish people didn’t have to be told things like, “Ladies and gentleman, this is just a reminder to bus your own tables if you eat at any of them. There are plenty of trashcans around the cars,” and “Ladies and gentleman, this is just a reminder that these 1- or 2-minute stops, which most of them are, are to let people get off the train if it’s their final destination or board the train if they’re just getting on. It is not an opportunity for existing passengers to jump off the train for a cigarette,” and “Ladies and gentleman, the next stop long enough to have a cigarette is ____________ in ____ miles. Please move away from the train entrances/exits to smoke in consideration of the non-smoking passengers that might be getting on or off.”
       
  5. I got up early the second morning and I walked (steadying myself with the walls and with my arms and legs spread apart) to the observation car, where I found that some people who only paid for seats (i.e., not rooms on the sleeper car) had made their way there and were sleeping on the floor blocking access to 3 or 4 seats. And on one of the seats by a person on the floor was their trash from a previous night’s snack.
     
  6. As I walked further along the car to get to one of the seats with tables in the observation car, I stepped on something sticky and checking it out found a red gummy bear stuck to the bottom of my shoe, and when I pulled it off, it had a hair stuck to it.
     
  7. Although “the brochure” touts three scenic highlights along the route — the Painted Desert, the Red Cliffs of Sedona, and the Grand Canyon — we saw only one red rock formation, which may have been part of either the Painted Desert or the Red Cliffs of Sedona, but we had no idea, and we didn’t see the Grand Canyon at all. (I mean we were asleep for 12-14 hours of the trip!)
     
  8. While I mentioned that the food was the best part of the trip, they always wanted to seat you with other people. Even the 2 times (one lunch, one dinner) we had the earliest reservations, we were seated with one or two other people already in the dining car, when the entire rest of the car was empty. I can see seating other people with you once the car starts filling up, but it was annoying to always be seated with other people. To “Monika’s” credit, for breakfast on one day, she did whisper to us, “Would you guys like to sit alone this morning?” to which we gave a resounding, “Yes!” And we were in and out of there before even 4 or 5 — of the about 20 — tables became occupied.
     
  9. At some point along the way, we got an hour behind schedule and never made it up. Well, we probably made some of it up, but then somewhere around Colorado or New Mexico, we were delayed by a tree that had fallen across the tracks, and we had to wait for some city’s government workers to come and remove it.
     
  10. Of the 31 or so stops only 3 were for more than a few minutes, with the longest being 40 minutes in Albuquerque, where we’d hope to meet a friend for a cup of coffee or a drink at the station, but that ended up not happening due to the unpredictability of when we’d arrive at the station.
     
  11. There was no wi-fi service on the train, and the train’s own Amtrak app didn’t stay updated in terms of the schedule indicating estimated arrival and departure times for stations along with actual arrival and departure times.
     
  12. There is so much opportunity to incorporate technology into improving the experience — a very simple one being some kind of monitors or electronic signage that showed where we were at any given time (at least what state we were in!) and what’s interesting to look for in any given place. Another easy thing would be displaying the current time. We went through 3 time changes, with no announcement when we moved from one to the next, and they always gave you the dining car operating hours in central time, even when we were no longer on central time.
     

Of course YMMV if you were to take said trip, perhaps especially if you’re younger. If we were to try another train trip, it’d have to be something like a 4- or 5-hour one, but right now, we don’t see one in our future.

Three 50-word stories about a trip I’m on right now.

The train The accommodations The route
We’re traveling on the Amtrak Southwest Chief leaving Chicago and traveling to Los Angeles over the course of 2½ days. It is a 43-hour trip of roughly 2,265 miles with 31 stops. It’s known for its scenic views including the Painted Desert, Red Cliffs of Sedona, and the Grand Canyon. We have the Superliner Bedroom with a sofa and a chair that transform into upper and lower beds to sleep in. There’s an in-room restroom and shower, and bedding, pillow, towels and linens, along with a dedicated first-class attendant, and we get priority boarding and complimentary snacks, meals, and drinks. Leaving Chicago and arriving in Los Angeles, we travel through Illinois (4 stops), Iowa (1 stop), Missouri (2 stops), Kansas (6 stops), Colorado (3 stops), New Mexico (5 stops), Arizona (3 stops), and California (6 stops). An Albuquerque friend is meeting us for a drink during our 40-minute stop there.
Read other 50-word stories that I’ve written.

Pre-train trip day 2 in Chicago

We took an $8 Lyft ride to the nearby Rosemont CTA blue line metro station, and took it into the city for $5 — instead of taking a $48 Lyft ride directly down there.

We got off the blue line at the Jackson Station, where we saw this Flamingo by Alexander Calder, an iconic, towering piece of bright red public art.

We walked around “willy-nilly” since we hadn’t done any planning. At one point, we may have ducked into a Barnes & Noble, looked in their “Local” section, and snapped a picture of this map instead of purchasing the $10 book it was in:

We walked around the theater district:

We walked along the Chicago River Riverwalk:

And saw these sights:

Down by the Navy Pier, we sat and just enjoyed this view of Lake Michigan:


All while we were walking around, I was looking for a place to enjoy a Chicago-style hot dog. We finally found one at Gordon Ramsay’s Burger.

Two things: 1) As much as I wanted one of these hot dogs, I don’t like mustard and dill pickles, so there was that. And 2) In the restroom in this restaurant, I encountered one of the worst affordances on a hand dryer:

The issue with it was that the blower that dries your hand was facing horizontally (at you) instead of vertically (down to the floor), which of course when you started, blew all of the water on your hands onto your body instead of down to the floor.

For posterity (in addition to being an outrageous sign of our times), our 2 hot dogs and 2 order of fries (with 2 “free” waters) came to $48 — $40 with an $8 tip!


A few other interesting sites we saw included this clump of buildings, these old-fashioned camera store signs that Bob loved, the Palmer House Hotel, the Weber Grill Restaurant, and the “Chicago Picasso”:


And finally, before heading back to our hotel, we took the blue line down two more stops to Clinton station, which upon exiting is a two-block walk to Union Station, where we’ll catch the Amtrak Southwest Chief, which is the whole reason we’re here.

Union Station entrance

Union Station wall poster

While we were in the station, we went ahead and got printed tickets from our e-ticket, and in the line, there was a person in front of us with obvious mental illness. He had an emotional support dog with him (who actually looked scared) and he kept talking to him in non-stop conversation about ways he’d (the person, not the dog) been wronged.

I was next in line behind him, and I kept my back to him facing Bob so as not to be drawn into his ramblings. When he got up to the desk person, he started ranting about some guy in a red cap that had done something to him and how he’d now spent $4000 on his trip. He was banging on the counter, and the poor clerk was looking at him with alarm.

At one point, the counter guy called someone on the phone, and shortly after that a woman came out who looked like she might have been his manager or boss, and then shortly after that 4 or 5 security people arrived to escort the rambling man away.


After getting our printed tickets, we took the CTA Blue Line back to our hotel

and we had cocktails and ate some of our plan-ahead (a.k.a. “leftover”) Chicago-style pizza.

Pre-train trip day 1 in Chicago

We arrived in Chicago this afternoon, where we’re hanging out until our departure on Wednesday afternoon on the Amtrak Southwest Chief from Chicago to L.A.

Food is always top of mind in my world, and I want to eat 2 things while I’m in Chicago — some Chicago deep-dish pizza and some Chicago hot dogs.


At O’Hare, we called our hotel to have their shuttle bus pick us up. I loved the link they provided to follow along as to where their driver was. I didn’t love the message: “Shuttle on [it is] way.”

Upon its arrival, we got on the complimentary transportation to the Comfort Suites O’Hare Airport, on which there was some incredible drama between Shirley, the driver, and another passenger (whom I’m calling “Missy”), which went something like this:

Driver to Missy: “What time is your flight tomorrow morning?”

Missy: “I don’t have a flight tomorrow. You’re asking me a lot of personal questions.”

Driver: “I’m just trying to help you be ready to request the shuttle service back to the airport for your next flight.”

Missy: “You have no idea what’s going on with me. I’m not in any headspace right now where I can answer the questions you’re asking me, and you’re asking me a lot of personal questions. I just graduated from college, and I’m in the middle of a civil rights case, and my mother got me this hotel, so the only thing I know right now is that this is where I need to go.”

Driver [to all riders in the car]: “Just so you know, there’s a pizza place right in the hotel…”

Missy [cutting her off]: “I don’t think you understand where I am right now. I can’t think about anything but getting some sleep right now. I haven’t slept for 24 hours. I just graduated from college, and I’m not in a headspace where I can even think about food.”

Bob [to driver]: “Thanks for letting us know about the pizza place. That’s helpful to us, and we appreciate it.”

Driver [back to Missy]: “What degree did you get?”

Missy: “A B.A. in Psychology, but I just can’t think about anything else right now. And you keep asking me questions.”

Driver: “I think I should just quit talking to you.”

Missy: “Yes, that would be perfect.”

I don’t know why that driver kept asking even more questions; it was sort of like picking at a scab. And, confoundingly, the girl answered some of the subsequent questions. It was all so incredibly awkward and uncomfortable for the rest of us in the shuttle.


We arrived at the Comfort Suites only to find there was no reservation on record for us. I showed the check-in person my confirmation email, and she pointed out that the reservation was for the Comfort Inn instead of the Comfort Suites.

We then took a Lyft to the address of the Comfort Inn, but when the driver turned into the “Comfort Inn’s” parking lot, it was a:

What the absolute f*ck???

Turns out it was the correct place, and the Comfort Inn had turned into the Hilton Spark on Friday (just 3 days ago!). No, we weren’t notified of that name and brand change. Fortunately, we’re members of both the Choice Privileges program and the Hilton Honors program for points.

It was a very inauspicious start of a trip, for sure.


In the midst of this attempt to get to our hotel — wherever it was here in Chicago, back in Raleigh, it was time for our Pelagic Run Club runners happy hours that we usually host, and which our friends Sam & Neal were representing us for on our front porch. We checked our Nest cam to see how it was progressing:

Thanks, Sam & Neal for being there! We appreciate and love you both.


After finally checking in to the hotel we (sort of) actually had a reservation at, Bob and I walked to a close-by shopping center where the hotel front-desk attendant told us we could get some deep-dish, Chicago-style pizza.

We got the medium size “Chicago Style [sic] Pizza, with Italian sausage added to it.

And fortuitously, there was a liquor store right next door to it, and we bought some Canadian Club and some Chicken Cock, which we’re allowed to have in our sleep car on the Amtrak Southwest Chief.

Two PostSecret secrets that tickled me from this Sunday’s collection

This one made me smile, because our Amtrak Southwest Chief trip is imminent, when we’ll be on a train for 43 hours from Chicago to L.A. — and now on the lookout for lovestruck strangers. 😂

And this one made me literally laugh out loud,

because I spent years wanting a postcard published on PostSecret.com — and it finally happened on December 17, 2023:

We’ve booked a vacation that’s not a cruise!

We have booked a sleep-car bedroom for a ride on Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, which leaves Chicago on Wednesday, September 3rd and arrives in Los Angeles on Friday, September 5th.

It’s an approximate 43-hour trip, covering roughly 2,265 miles with 31 stops. The Southwest Chief is known for its scenic views, including the Painted Desert, Red Cliffs of Sedona, and the Grand Canyon.

The trip is described as:

We’ll take you across the mighty Mississippi through 8 states — past wheat fields and ranches, missions and pueblos, mountains and deserts. Carving through curving canyon passages only a few feet wider than the train itself, you’ll see spectacular landscapes and pristine vistas not visible from interstate highways.

ITINERARY

We’ll leave from Chicago’s Union Station on Wednesday, September 3, 2025 @ 2:25 p.m.

And arrive in Los Angeles’ Union Station on Friday, September 5, 2025 @ 7:57 a.m.


SLEEPING

Our bedroom looks like this, where the seating on the left side converts to bunk beds:

And I’ll be climbing up the ladder to the top bunk for sleeping. You probably figured I was a top.


EATING

See the current traditional dining menu.

Bob and I both love a good omelet, so we’ll definitely be having one of these one day, if not both days! (Note: We will also be adding a hyphen between “three” and “egg” in our order.)


We’ll be flying to Chicago to catch the train, spend 3 days in the L.A. area once we get there — for a family event — and fly back from LAX to RDU.

Here’s a taste of the experience, which shows the bedroom and the dining experience. (Complete aside: Jeb is adorable, which isn’t important, but my goodness doesn’t it help?)